How to use Duos, Trios, Quads, Quintets???! (A few basic shapes that work with all eye shapes)
The first thing I always tell people when it comes to eye shadow application is - find your socket line. And learn to separate that from your crease.
There is a myth about applying shadows “on/within your crease”. Well that’s fine if you have very defined, even, thick lid folds. But if you have hooded eyes, mono-lids, or smaller lids where the crease is either not visible or not high enough, many eye-shadow looks can be very unflattering or they simply disappear when you open your eyes.
What to do? Simply replace the word “crease” with “socket line” from today on. If you have mono-lids and hooded lids, it’s important to blend your shadows UP TO your socket line at least. That not only defines your natural contours but also widens the eye.
- Your socket line is where your eyeball dips into your orbital bone. Close your eyes and feel for it.
- Flattering eyeshadow looks are all about "creating shadow and light" in the right places. Even if your eye contours aren’t very defined naturally, placing a bit of deeper color along your socket line and a pale shade in the center of your lid will create the illusion of more pronounced contours without making you look too dramatic.
- I DON’T recommend creating a fake socket line higher or lower than your natural one. It can go very very wrong unless you’re an absolute pro.
- Many times we use brushes that are way too big or fluffy. If you have small lids or eyes, a smaller, round-ferrule pencil brush like the one from 13rushes can make life a lot easier. Go for the flatter, wider brushes if you have a bigger lid space to work with.
Now that we’ve got that covered, you can get back to the question of “what the heck do I do with this palette that has 2-3-4-5 shades?!” and look at the images above as a reference for where colors go.
Don’t be restricted by the image with the 4 shadow palettes and the labels on each of the shades. It’s there as a reference but the best thing is to look at the eye charts, because you can use any 2 shades in a quad or a 5-color palette as a duo using a DUO diagram.
Steps don’t include liner (optional) and mascara, so you just add them later.
THESE ARE NOT RULES. They’re just basic guidelines for those who aren’t too familiar with eye makeup yet.
Lastly, when looking for eyeshadow palettes, here are some beginners’ tips:
- My palette has one cream/liner/glitter shade! Well, take those out of the equation and see how many regular shadows are left. If there are 3, shadows left, follow the TRIO diagram. If there are 2, follow the DUO diagrams.
- Erm, so what do I do with base/liner/glitter shades? Apply the base all over from lash line to socket bone before you begin (you don’t need to go all the way to your brows unless you want a dramatic look). For glitter shades, you can apply them as a wash all over when you’re done with the rest of your eyeshadows, or down the center of the eye for a “wet look” when you blink. Liner shades are self explanatory!
- DUOS: look for those where 1 shade is the same lightness or lighter than your skin color, and 1 shade is darker/smokier. Doesn’t matter if they are metallic, shimmery, matte, sparkly. For most basic daily makeup looks, you just need a light and dark to define your eyes.
- All palettes: make sure there is a "balance of light to dark shades". This means at least 1 softer shade and at least 1 dark shade that is deep enough to act as a definer shade. (There are a lot of palettes where all 3-4 shades are pretty shimmery pastels. Well, sorry but they’ll look nicer on your vanity table than on your face. You need a darker shade there for definition and contouring in order for the palette to look flattering.
- QUADS: What do you do if there are 2 pale shades? Which should you apply on your brow bone, and which as an accent in the center of your eye? The less shimmery/sparkly one on the brow bone, and the more dramatic and reflective one on the center of the eye. If they’re about the same texture, then it doesn’t matter which you use where.
- 5-6 SHADE PALETTES: Many people find them overwhelming, but you really don’t need to wear all the colors everyday. You can pick 2-3 shades and wear them as a duo or trio (See diagrams) easily. So they actually give you the most options!
Some Idiot-proof Eyeshadow recommendations:
Duos: Laura Mercier eyeshadow duos. Always well coordinated, with 1 soft/matte shade and 1 darker, richer one. Takes the guess-work out of eyeshadow application.
Trios: A lot of drugstore brands like Wet n Wild Color Icon have pre-coordinated trios with the shades marked out as lid, crease, browbone for you. Just remember “crease” = socket line. In the higher end range, Dior’s 3 Couleurs are beautifully coordinated and easy to use and blend.
Quads: Tom Fords and Chanels have some of the easier to use luxe quads in the market, but if you’re going for the Tom Fords, remember to minus out the sparkle shades. (E.g. 01 Golden Mink is what I’d consider a duo, not a quad, because there are 2 sparkle shades out of the 4, and I’d apply the 2 satin shades using one of the DUO diagrams above, and then decide how I want to apply the sparkles.)
**Laneige Pure Radiant eyeshadow quads (S$40) are a fantastic alternative - not dupes cos there are no exact palette matches, but great alternatives - for Tom Fords (S$100) because the satins and glitter textures, as well as a few of the shades, are actually very very similar. If you love the look of TFs but find the prices a little steep in Asia, take a look at the Laneige counter! See for yourself!
Quintets: Lancome’s Hypnose palettes are still one of my favorites. They usually have the BEST balance of dark and light shades, and they’re perfectly coordinated with each other, so you can pick any 2-3 shades out of the 5 and go.
**Diors are a good option if you have more mature lids or prefer smoother, more translucent pigments but the 5 couleurs are’t as well-balanced as Lancomes, so unless you’re very experienced and know how to add definition using liner and mascara, I’d pick a few colors and use these palettes as duos and trios rather than a quintet.
If you want to break the rules completely and do it like makeup artists do sometimes, NARS’ duos are pretty much on the opposite spectrum to Laura Mercier.
They do have light vs dark shades too, but there are also tons of funky clashing duos designed for maximum drama on the lids. Stuff like Rated R (lime and blue) and Bysance (yellow and violet) can still be applied using the 2 DUO diagrams above, but the final effect will be VERY bold. Probably better for the club than for school or work.
So very relevant to my current interests.
Helpful if you’re trying to figure out what to do with the Aromaleigh “This Is My Design" colors. I have deep-set eyes, so yeah, I generally blend a "crease" color up to/over my socket line so you can even see it. I’m experimenting with some of the other colors to see what might blend well with the darker or more vivid shades; turns out that Tattler is really, really pretty blended with Everlasting Credit as your lighter shade, like a sunset. It also worked with Yarrow, a matte, and would probably work with a shimmer like Sophie. I’m still working out what might go with Ravenstag and Murder Tie.
- 1 month ago
- 1 month ago
Ace Attorney Investigations 2 beta translation patch released ⊟
What a great month it’s been for DS games and fan translations! You can grab the beta patch for this 2011 sequel to the Miles Edgeworth spin-off at GBAtemp. Naturally, you’ll need a digital copy of the game, one we hope you procured in a somewhat legal manner with a purchased copy (you can buy the import game here).
- 2 months ago
Assuming 4 episodes in the 19th and 2 episodes per week every monday
Usagi Solo, (Jadeite Arc)
May 19th: 1-4
May 26th: 5, 6
June 2nd: 7, 8 (ENTER AMI)
June 9th: 9, 10 (ENTER REI)
June 16th: 11, 12
End of Jadeite Arc, beginning of Nephrite Arc
June 23rd: 13, 14
June 30th: 15, 16
July: 7th: 17, 18
July 14th: 19, 20
July 21st: 21, 22
July 28th: 23, 24
Rainbow Crystal Arc:
August 4th: 25, 26 (ENTER MAKOTO)
August 11th: 27, 28
August 18th: 29, 30
August 25th: 31, 32
September 1st: 33, 34 (ENTER MINAKO)
END OF THE RAINBOW CRYSTAL ARC, Kunzite/Finale arc.
September 8th: 35, 36
September 15th: 37, 38
September 22nd: 39, 40
September 29th: 41, 42
October 6th: 43, 44
October 13th: 45, 46 (this day is going to fucking destroy everybody)
(via goddamnit-ikuhara)Source: crunchbuttsteak
- 2 months ago
What, are we taking everybody?
the reason that this line is significant is because jim morita was a japanese-american soldier. while it’s never explicitly stated, here’s what morita’s life would have been like before being captured by HYDRA:
- december 7, 1942: the empire of japan attacked pearl harbor. he was probably a soldier at this time since he was considered to be elite enough for steve’s squad; unknown where he served, although there were many japanese-american soldiers who died in and who were the first responders to the attack.
- december 8, 1942: the us declares a state of war with japan.
- all japanese-american men disqualified from the draft via the label “4-C,” or “enemy alien,” no matter their citizenry. all japanese-american men in the service are removed from duty.
- february 19, 1942: president roosevelt signed executive order 9066, authorizing the military to exclude certain groups from military zones.
- the fbi searched the homes of japanese-americans for “contraband,” including correspondence with anyone in japan such as personal letters. any such contraband is confiscated.
- (fun sidenote: how did they know where to find these people so that they could be harassed? well, gosh, the census bureau told them. illegally. no big deal.)
- community leaders, including priests, gathered up and sent to prison camps like tule lake. this is also where several families were sent to be deported to japan since they were not deemed loyal enough.
- 122,000 people of japanese-american descent are told to sell or store their property as they can only bring what they can carry out of the “exclusion zones,” which meant most of the west coast. (hawaii, whose population was about a quarter japanese, was for the most part not included in this.) given only a few weeks to organize their lives, they were then sent via cattle train to concentration camps set up throughout the us.
- since morita was from fresno, he would have ended up here:
- sunny poston, arizona. conveniently built on an indian reservation against the wishes of the tribal council, who wanted nothing to do with the government’s white supremacist bullshit. why only infringe on the rights and wishes of one minority group, right?
- choice quote: ”After fifteen months at Arizona’s vast Poston Relocation Center as a social analyst, Commander Leighton concluded that many an American simply fails to remember that U.S. Japanese are human beings.”
- shortly after arriving, all prisoners were asked to fill out a survey. most of the questions would be simple, like their name, city of birth, etc, but questions 27 and 28 were different.
- question 27: Are you willing to serve in the armed forces of the United States on combat duty, wherever ordered?
- question 28: Will you swear unqualified allegiance to the United States of America and faithfully defend the United States from any and all attacks by foreign and domestic forces, and forswear any form of allegiance or disobedience to the Japanese Emperor, or any other foreign government, power, or organization?
- did you answer yes to both? congratulations! you’re a soldier. did you answer no to both? perhaps you’re too old or sick to serve? perhaps the general fuckery of this entire situation got you down? perhaps you were born outside of the us, so you can’t disavow your country of origin since there is a very real chance you’ll be deported? haha well congratulations hope you like prison and/or deportation
- so all of this goes on
- and then morita goes on to serve
- and get captured
- and rescued
- and dumbass doogan says, “what, are we taking everybody?”
- fuck you
- i’m from fresno
But no, really, why are we not talking about Jim Morita all the time?
Hawaii, with a high percentage of Japanese-Americans, was a little more selective, since the community would LITERALLY have collapsed if they pulled a full EO 9066 here. Which is why my family has a picture of Great-great Uncle Jiro on the baseball team at Sand Island. (And also why I’m still pissed about that Hawaii Five-0 episode where McGarrett was all ‘Hey my ancestor died protecting the land too! from the japanese!’ Like, I will never not be pissed about it.). It wasn’t as shitty, but you know, it was still wrong.
(Still hands-down, my favorite scene from CA:TFA.)
Co-signed, and this scene barely lasts fifteen seconds. Jim Morita needs more love (and, by extension, more people need to be schooled about his situation).Source: harlequinnade
- 2 months ago
- 2 months ago
I WAS A NAZI SS OFFICER AT THE HEAD OF ADMISSIONS OF AUSCHWITZ.
Oh the irony of being a Russian Lesbian Jew.
I was a british librarian.Jewish French resistance fighter novelist.
A Welsh rugby player. Sure, why not?
An Indian test cricketer.
A nazi captain head of the ss or something. Wow and I’m bi and nonbinary.
I was a Dutch gymnast who competed in the 1906 olympics. Individual all around competition!
(and then I was never that flexible again.)
I was a woman’s rights activist poet who was also a freedom fighter and stuff
I was a German schoolteacher who wrote children’s books.
I was a Pomo basket weaver
her mother had the same last name as me
I was an American Biochemist
Apparently I was a film director and screenwriter responsible for such gems as 1934’s Nifty Nurses. Probably not porn, but still..
Canadian linguist and lexicographer. Could that possibly explain my love of the Tragically Hip? Other than the fact that I grew up in Detroit, listening to Canadian alternative radio, of course.Source: unhunted
- 2 months ago
What the fucking shit is happening
i cant stop laughing omg
BUT WHY IS TOMMY LEE JONES TEACHING IN JAPAN
AND WHY DOES HE HAVE SUPERPOWERS
SOMEBODY EXPLAIN THIS PLEASE
Tommy Lee Jones has been starring in a series of commercials for Boss Coffee for years now and they are MASTERPIECES OF CINEMA. The plot is that he’s an alien investigating life on earth, and each commercial is a problem or situation.
Continuation here (without subs)
THERE IS ONE OF HIM WORKING AS A HOST OH MY GOD
(via sassygayshepard)Source: 4gifs
- 2 months ago
- 2 months ago
April 21, 1989: Tiananmen Square Protests Begin
On this day in 1989, students began protesting in Tiananmen Square in Beijing, the symbolic central space of China. Several weeks later, when the government sent in the army to end the demonstrations, the citizens of Beijing poured into the streets in support of the students.
The demonstrations ended in a massacre on the night of June 3-4, when the government sent the troops into the city with orders to clear Tiananmen Square. One day later, a single, unarmed young man stood his ground before a column of tanks on the Avenue of Eternal Peace. Captured on film and video by Western journalists, this extraordinary confrontation became an icon of the struggle for freedom around the world.
In 2012, FRONTLINE took a look back at how the iconic image of the “tank man” came to be, more than twenty years after the massacre at Tiananmen Square.
Photo: A Chinese man stands alone to block a line of tanks heading east on Beijing’s Changan Blvd. in Tiananmen Square on June 5, 1989. (AP/Jeff Widener)
We talked about this recently in class. Still important.
(via asianhistory)Source: pbsthisdayinhistory